2015 Vacation - Day 14

The bus was suppose to leave at 12:30am. It was midnight and we were getting anxious about Davor's whereabouts, so we decided to get on foot which, in case he did not show up, would take us maybe 15-20 minutes. As soon as we got close to the Boulevard, he showed up and took us to the station. Bus came on time, but it was weird: it was some kind of a small bus, full of people and, to our disappointment reservations did not matter, you sit wherever you can. We were lucky enough to get two seats at the very end of it, cramped next to a couple of 6'6" guys. It was very uncomfortable ride and, besides, I still do not understand why the driver did not take the highway right away instead of going through Obrovac and Gracac and then catching the highway after almost two hours. Arrived to Zagreb on time, took a taxi to the airport where check in was already in progress only to find out that our flight is being delayed due to bad weather in Dubrovnik (where our plane was arriving from). This was a bit scary because we did not have much layover time in Frankfurt but ultimately and with a lot of fast walking through Frankfurt airport we managed to get in just in time. Flight to Newark was very comfortable. Arrived on time, no problems with customs. Ras picked us up at the airport and as soon as we got back home I wanted to take a little nap. It was maybe 3pm. When Janet finally woke me up it was well past 10. What a vacation it was. 

2015 Vacation - Day 13

Since we had to return the car by 9am, Davor came to us, then we followed him to the car rental place. It was raining heavy all night long and it was still very humid and wet outside. The return itself was routine and quick, so we went on to search for a place to have breakfast. Pretty soon we realized it was Sunday and pretty much everything was closed. The only thing we were able to do was to go to the supermarket and get some fish for "gradele". Davor did not want to hear me paying for it; this actually happened once before at Chief's and I did not quite understand, but decided to let him be. Bozo wanted to get busy cleaning the fish, but Davor would not trust anyone operate the grill. It felt nice just chit-chatting with them around the grill and drinking home made brandy. The meal was delicious, home made wine even better, but the best part was just being there with them. Bozo, for his 85 years is holding on as good as anyone in their sixties. Ivanka fell in love with Janet and asked me at the end to make sure not to "...screw this one up".
It was already mid afternoon when we finished with our lunch, so we decided to go back home and start packing for the trip back. Davor was going to come by to help us to the bus station and to say goodbye.

2015 Vacation - Day 12

The night before we agreed with Davor to spend the day in Split, so we got up early and went to his place to pick him up. This was the first time we saw his mother who was in church the first time we went there. Good old Ivanka was all happy to see us and made us a nice breakfast of bacon and eggs with, of course, Bozo's accompaniment of home made brandy (for breakfast, none the less). Goooood stuff. For some reason I always thought Split was much closer, but it really took us good two hours to get there. Dioclecian's palace was our main and only point of interest, so we parked at nearby ferry loading parking spot by kind permission of a local attendant with twenty kuna under the table. Palace itself was impressive. Janet, I thought was speechless. The day was very hot and was wearing us down walking around, taking pictures and finally leaving full of impressions. Upon arrival back to Zadar we stopped at a car wash to beautify our trusty Renault before the final return scheduled for the first thing Sunday morning. Dropped Davor at his home and went for a little nap. In the evening we picked him up again and all three went for a dinner at Niko's in Borik. Really classy place by the water. And, again, final coffee round at Chief's place.

2015 Vacation - Day 11

Finally a beach day! Got up earlier, before the sun gets too hot because I can't get exposed for too long, and went down to Kolovare. Adriatic was as blue as ever. Still fairly warm and salty. I really enjoyed it for couple of hours, while Janet sat on the beach doing her thing (the excuse was she forgot her bathing suite). At midday we went to nearby coffee shop for lunch where I enjoyed pretty darn good Dalmatian style cevapi. The place was nice, high above the beach with nice view of the sea and nearby islands. From there we went back home for a nap but made sure we came back later in the afternoon for another round of swimming. In the evening we went back to the old town to visit some more of many interesting sites. The very first thing, and a total discovery, was this little park on a hill right next to 'Pet bunara'. Really beautiful. Walked up and down the town checking 'The sun thingie' at full display, ate at Pet bunara and finished the day by Chief's with all the regulars.

2015 Vacation - Day 10

Buffet breakfast was included in our stay at Villa Eugenia. And the breakfast it was. Plenty in both choices and quantity. Our next stop is Pula and Here started the trip by taking us on another adventure. She took us straight up the Ucka mountain which rises as a backdrop of Lovran and all of the little towns around. Road was very curvy and getting narrower as we got closer to the top. Our car almost stalled at one point due to the incline; it was so steep I had to downshift to first in order to continue. At the end it was about one car width, we were concerned if someone comes from the opposite direction.  And as soon as we cleared the last curve we came across two young people standing there waiting for the cops after they collided (at the widest part of the road). They were both ok, minor fender bender. The focal point of visiting Pula was the Arena. And it did not failed to impress. It is magnificent in its size and beauty. Here it was that we learned that the 'thumbs up, thumbs down' was a Hollywood invention. After thoroughly checking it, getting some souvenirs and refreshments we made a dart for Porec to see my old friend Zdenjek. He was at work but managed to take and hour to show us around and have a cup of coffee at the end. It was nice seeing him again. It was already mid afternoon when we decided to head back to Zadar. This time I was not going to let Here dictate the route. I wanted to show Janet the beauty of the Adriatic coastline along the old Magistrala. And I don't think I failed. At times a bit scary with it's twists, turns and heights, but ultimately beautiful. We made a stop at Selce, a place where I had spent part of my military training some forty years ago. It's still pretty much the same, camping and the beach. When we arrived to Zadar it was already pretty late, we were hungry so we just walked to the nearby bakery and got some burek and went to bed.

2015 Vacation - Day 9

Got up early, filled up the tank and took off for Plitvice. After about an hour or two we arrived at the center of paradise. No kidding, if there is one on earth, this is it. We took a three hour trail and to be honest I do not think a six hour one could be any better, nor necessary. The clarity of water, the fish, the fresh air, the natural architecture of the cascading lakes and waterfalls... We were both left speechless. And again, that exercise that we had in Dubrovnik and Paklenica was very welcomed by  both of us. Janet claims that she got her training for all this at Boskoviceva street in Dubrovnik and that without that experience she probably would not have been able to do the rest of walking tours. This one was not extremely difficult, but three hours of uphill walking will wear your out. Sometime in the late afternoon we left Plitvice and drove off to Lovran where we had reserved a night stay in a hotel. It was actually and old, newly renovated Villa Eugenia. Beautiful place right in the center of town surrounded by palms and cypress trees and of course the towns namesake the Laureana or as we know it the Bay Leaf. For dinner we walked for about half a mile to this place, recommended by a girl from reception desk,  situated right on the water, called Najade. Sea bass, scampi, wine and the aroma of the sea water made the evening. We took our time and walked the dinner off along the shore enjoying the quietness of the night and the views of Kvarner.

2015 Vacation - Day 8

Tuesday was pretty much the copy of the previous day, and even he weather was the same. Had breakfast Kod Stipe in the old town. Very quiet and nice place to eat. We also discovered, by an accident, a very nice contemporary coffee shop that was part of hotel Art on Kalelarga. Great pastries and of course, coffee. The accident happened when we sat at an outdoor coffee shop and waited and waited, but nobody came. We finally asked a waiter and he explained that section we were sitting in belongs to a shop around the corner. After discovering that his shop did not have wifi, we moved over to around the corner and, voila. The fact that we were neglected outside was quickly forgotten. We spent the day climbing up the walls and walking around as well as checking some more of tourist attractions. The sight at Riva with the Sun thingy was spectacular at night. And due the the windy weather the Sea organ was producing some scary sounds. For dinner we went to Bruschetta near the little old church that looks like the old fashioned key. That place was packed, so we took the last table available and we weren't sorry. I was good. Another end of the day at Chief's place and another macchiato before the bed time. Everybody in Croatia drinks macchiato.

2015 Vacation - Day 7

Today was our first day of Zadar sightseeing. Breakfast naturaly is the first thing you do and since as soon as we walk into the town we spotted Skoblar's konoba we decided to eat there. Food itself was not that bad, but they did not have wifi. Very disappointing. Our whole day was spent on walking around and checking all the special places I knew of. The Donat was Janet's most favorite, but all the rest of it was just as fascinating with it's age and architecture. The day was windy (they called it jugo) and overcast, but otherwise very nice.For dinner this time we selected, or should I say simply stumbled upon, restaurant Pet Bunara. As far as I am concerned a five star place. I had this great home made stew that was out of this world. I was even bragging about it later on at Chief's where we met Davor and Kusho for a cup of macchiato before we went to bed. Today I got my first and only parking ticket in Croatia! I just didn't know where and how to pay for it but as always, in her calm way Janet explained it and we were ok for the rest of the time there. Davor picked up the bill.

2015 Vacation - Day 6

Breakfast at Chief's with Davor and Mladen, his friend. We all decided to go to Paklenica for a hike and spend the day there.It's about 50 km ride from Zadar and then about 2-3 hours long hike. First leg of about half an hour was probably the most difficult one and at the same time the most interesting one since this is the starting point for all those crazy mountain climbers which we saw in great numbers. Janet and I took longer than normal in this phase simply because we wanted to observe the scenery and climbers. Davor and Mladen were waiting for us at the end of it at the little rest stop with some mountain water to freshen up. From there on we took off and only made a quick pit stop at the first mountain restaurant and reach our destination, a hiker's lodge, without the other two in sight. It was a nice but hard walk and we were glad it was over. About 15 minutes later Mladen showed up concerned about our whereabouts. Davor was behind him another maybe 15 minutes. They taught we were lost. The rest of the afternoon we had this roughly made but very tasty stew of beans, peas, corn and meat, lots of bear and coffee. Davor kept the guitar at this place, so we had a lot of fun singing some old tunes. I had to take my afternoon nap on Janet's lap. It was probably the most comfortable one I ever had. The views, the fresh air and a good old exercise added, made this one a very memorable trip. In the evening we walked down and drove back home with a stop at Dinko's konoba. Man, that guy can clean oratta for you like I have never seen before. That was probably the best dinner we had the whole trip.

2015 Vacation - Day 5

It was suppose to be a very long day ahead of us so we got up fairly early, packed up and went to Stefo to square things up. Again, Marija was more than hospitable with breakfast and all. Sarajevo was awaiting. Nice ride through the mountains and that highway only to get lost a little by Here at the entrance to the city. I managed to recognize Ilidza tram station and from there on it was smooth sailing to Vijecnica. Half way through the exhibits I broke down. Memories of old times and life we had and atrocities committed in between just got to me. I just could not help myself and cried like a baby. Outside was a beautiful sunny day so we walked through Bascarsija up and down with Janet buying gifts and souvenirs all over the place. She was so excited. Cevapi at Hase's 'Petica' were delicious. So was tulumba at Egipat. I was surprised that this place was so busy with a whole lot more people than even Dubrovnik. Visited Cathedral, Gazi Husrev Bey Mosque and Bezistan which was definitely Janet's most favorite place of all. The only thing this time I could not convince her to try water at the spout. The spot from which the archduke was assassinated is different, without footprints and the plaque has only very factual wording. Reminder that the new system treats Gavrilo not as a freedom fighter. Later in the afternoon we continued our trip towards Zadar. I decided to go back  to Jablanica and than to take a turn over Prozor onto Tomislavgrad and Croatia simply because I have never been in that neck of the woods. The scenery was simply breathtaking. Canyons, cliffs, mountain peaks and a curvy but good quality road weaving through it all. After about five or six hours we arrived in Zadar at Chief's place in marina where we prearranged to meet Davor. They were both happy to see us and very nice. Even this late Chief managed to make us some burgers since we were both very hungry. Davor showed us the way to Budo's place after we all agreed to meet at Chief's again next morning.

2015 Vacation - Day 4

Got up early and went for burek and yogurt at Dzeni's and then for coffee to Art. Caco, Sudo, Pavlovic, Crlja were happy to see me again. They were making friendly jokes about Janet's background asking if she had brought anything for them to puff on. Robi was off but Caco called him in and he came for a couple of minutes, only to tell me his mom was not available for me to see her. Then we went to Afrika to say hello to Toni and after that on to the bank. It was nice and easy getting the remainder of the money that was left on Joe's account. After that we went to the cemetery and laid some flowers and candles that I preordered with Edo's wife Jadranka. Janet commented that my parents have the best seats in town (referring to the view). Kemo and Camila were home and we invited them to join us for trip and lunch in Kamenica which they accepted. Kemo was smart enough to bring extra jackets for us because it prove to be cold up there in the mountains. We had a very nice lunch and a lot of laughs especially aimed at my translating abilities. Upon return to town Janet and I took a walk around the town visiting Villa and some other spots ending in Afrika again with Toni and Irena. After few beers Toni sang "Da li znas..." for Janet. She was very impressed.

2015 Vacation - Day 3

Rained all night. In the morning we squared the bill with Marija's mother in law and her mom took us to the car rental place. We got Renault Fluence. Not bad looking car for a 1.6 liter engine. From the get go I did not like the sound of the diesel engine and the thing with the lights (low beam too low so I had to drive with high beams on). Nobody complained. This was the first opportunity to test the Here Maps application. Crossing the border I had asked Bosnian customs officer for the nearest exchange office. His response was: "I have no idea." I said to myself: "Welcome to Bosnia". We had pretty much pleasant ride over Trebinje, through Popovo polje onto our first destination of Vrelo Bune in Blagaj. Somewhere in between one of the most memorable incidents happened to us and I still can't find its exact location on the map. I had made a wrong turn and Here guided us through some local roads and ultimately a dirt farm road so narrow that our car picked up some scratches from the brush. It was kind of scary and adventurous at the same time. The Tekke and the spring of Buna were fantastic as was the trout we had for lunch. Next stop was Mostar with it's old bridge. Here was the first time for Janet to experience turkish coffee and hurmashice. She bought a bunch of little trinkets for friends and relatives. Towards the and of afternoon we continued north and made a stop at Jablanica to see the monument and a museum to the WW2 battle for the wounded. From there it was straight to Zavidovici. Janet could not stop admiring the scenery and mountain ranges. We were both impressed with the new highway system with a bunch of tunnels. It was already late when we arrived to my birthplace, so we just announced ourselves at Stefo's. Marija was extremely hospitable, feeding us and providing linens and things.

2015 Vacation - Day 2

First order of business was to get tickets for all major attractions in the city, and then breakfast at this restaurant called Dubravka right outside of Pile gate. They have been there since 1863. Then we decided to go up on the wall and walk around. Architecture and views were fantastic. The rest of the day was spent on visiting different museums, churches, palaces, and just admiring the architecture of the city. Rector's palace was impressive with its layout and furnishings. The old pharmacy was our favorite despite the fact we barely made it before closing. I managed to convince Janet to take a sip of water from Onnofrio's fountain. One thing can be said about Dubrovnik and that is that we have not seen as many restaurants in both our lives as there are in this tiny walled-in place. At the end of the day we ate at Penatur konoba. Janet was not too happy about the choice of fish she had, but I think that was offset by the quality of music we had enjoyed. A single guy with semi acoustic guitar. Unbelievable. The rest of the night we walked around, listening to so many different live performers. This place stays alive well into the night. Took bus #3 home and started packing. Had a little incident with our next door neighbors using our bathroom.

2015 Vacation - Day 1

After whole night of watching US Open during the flight, we took four hours of layover in Munich as a blessing from the skies and took one hour turns in sleeping on a bench. Flight to Dubrovnik was nice and short. It was amazing to watch some of the familiar landscapes flying over. I never knew you can clearly see Bushko jezero, Neretva valley and even Mt. Velez above Mostar. Toni, Marija's broher picked us up.Both him and Marija were very nice and hospitable. After freshening up we walked down to Old City, exchanged some money and climbed a very steep and long street to get to cable car for Srdj. Janet still remembers that street. The view from the top was amazing, especially being at the sundown. Back into the city we ate at Dundo Maroje konoba at Marija's recommendation. What caught our attention was that the menu was printed in eight languages, three of which would be meaningless for an average westerner: Mandarin, Arabic and Russian. This was the case, more or less anywhere else we ate. we enjoyed the food as well as live music next door. It was close to midnight when we took the bus back home.